AN INTRODUCTION TO SICILY
Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean, and the southernmost part of Italy, has had a remarkable history and many superb archaeological sites and beautiful buildings survive from the past. It also has lush sub-tropical vegetation around the coast, with wonderful mountain scenery in the interior. Sicily is famous above all for its Greek remains, only rivalled by those in Greese itself, including the superb temples at Agrigento, Segesta and Selinunte, and the spectacular theatres at Taormina, Syracuse and Segesta. Palermo has fascinating Arab Norman buildings, especially famous for their wonderful mosaics (which also decorate the cathedrals of Monreale and Cefalù). Sicily has its own delightful Baroque architecture in the east and in the southeast corner of the island, where the towns were all rebuilt after an earthquake in 1693, resulting in the splendours of Noto, Ragusa, Militello, Catania and Acireale.
As many days as possibible should be devoted to the city of Palermo and its environs (notably Monreale). Selinunte may then be reached via Segesta and the west coast (Trapani, Erice, the island of Mozia, and Marsala), or, if you have very little time, direct from Palermo (in this case Segesta can be visited on a detour or in a day from Palermo). Agrigento, reached from Selinunte along the south coast via Eraclea Minoa, deserves a visit of at least two days. The numerous medieval hill towns and spectacular countryside in the interior of the island can be explored from Enna (reached via Caltanissetta from Agrigento). Piazza Armerina, with the famous mosaics in its Roman villa, and the ruins of Morgantina are between Enna and Caltagirone, another inland town.
In the southeast corner of Sicily are the fine Baroque towns of Ragusa, Modica and Comiso. The exploration of Syracuse and its environs (the Castello Eurialo, Noto, Palazzolo Acreide and the necropolis of Pantalica) requires at least three days. Catania, which can be visited in a day, is a good centre for the ascent of Etna and a circular tour of the foothills. The road between Catania and Messina passes Giardini Naxos and Taormina, where at least one night should be spent. On the road along the north coast, Tindari and Cefalù should not be missed.
Acireale, Milazzo and Syracuse are ideal bases for spending a few days touring in eastern and central Sicily and they all offer excellent accomodation. The most spectacular farmhouses for a restful holiday are in the province of Messina, on the Nebrodi Mountains. This area is also very good for birdwatching.
The two main cities of Sicily, Palermo and Catania, after a period of decline in the 1960s and 1970s, have in the last few years become much more pleasant places to visit since the standard of living here has greatly improved. They are better kept and numerous restoration projects are in progress, more churches are open and there is more to do in the evenings. Palermo is a fascinating city with numerous large street markets in the old city centre, and Catania is a very elegant Baroque city which is awakening to new life after many years of shameful neglect.
The natural beauty of Sicily is at last being preserved; there are many wildlife reserves as well as several regional parks which ensure protection for Mount Etna, the Nebrodi Mountains and the Madonie Mountains and some of the most beautiful offshore islands; Ustica, the Aeolians and the Egadi islands. The Roman villa at Piazza Armerina, the temples of Agrigento, the Aeolian Islands, the Baroque monuments of Noto, Militello, Scicli, Modica, Caltagirone and Ragusa are all now recognised by UNESCO as world heritage sites.
The food of Sicily is extremely good and inexpensive, and Sicilian specialities ensure an interesting variety. The sweets and cakes, using pistachios, almond, paste and ricotta as basic ingredients, are particularly delicious, and ice cream is always superb. Excellent fresh fish is served all over the island. Sicily is catching up with the rest of Italy in the provision of good small hotels, and very good accomodation is now available in farmhouses and country homes all over the island. A recent law has made it possible for people to open their homes to guests on a bed-and-breakfast arrangement, and this is certainly one of the most interesting and rewarding ways of visiting Sicily, allowing closer contact with the Sicilian people.
Although Sicily has long been notorious as the birthplace of the Mafia, professional criminals who have subjected the population to a "protection" system, which has for years controlled almost every business transaction on the island, both private and state, it is necessary to emphasise that travellers to the island are in no way exposed to this problem. Sicilians are famous for their hospitality and extremely kind and helpful to visitors. Sicily is as safe a place to visit as any other part of Italy, if not safer. After the courageous stand taken by a number of Sicilians against the Mafia there are signs that it is fast losing two of its greatest strengths, its legitimacy and its invisibility.
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