Valerio Travel - sicilia tour operator - beach holidays sicily

Valerio Travel - sicilia tour operator - beach holidays sicily

I love Sicilian Arancini

To most tourists, this is street food. You don't really get arancinis in restaurants. But to Sicilians, this is a national sicilian emblem, cooked with time and love by their mothers and grandmothers. Everybody knows a person 'who makes the best arancinis'.
It could be preposterous for a Swiss to try and make such a difficult and symbolic dish, but I came well-equipped with some tastings and the absolute reference on Sicilian cuisine, Il diamante della grande cucina di Sicilia (The Diamond of the Great Cuisine of Sicily), written by Sicilian theater director with a passion for food Pino Correnti. Each recipe is explained in great details, with all the technicalities and tours-de-main as well as ample historical background.

What brought these glorified deep-fried stuffed rice croquettes such reverence? I am not sure. But they certainly hold a high status in Sicily. The most widely read author in Italia, Camilleri, whose 'Montalbano' detective novels fostered a hugely successful string of 12 movies, wrote one of the novels around this dish. In 'Gli arancini di Montalbano', the commissioner Montalbano goes to great lengths to ensure he can accept the invitation to eat arancinis on New Year's Eve at one of his informants' mother's house.

Montalbano has to lie to his girlfriend who organised him a romantic trip to Paris, lie to his boss and forge evidence to ensure he gets his arancinis. On the picture above you see the mother preparing the arancinis in the final scene. You can download the episode from the RAI TV website if your Italian is any good.

Here is the paragraph in the book:

Gesù, gli arancini di Adelina! Li aveva assaggiati solo una volta: un ricordo che sicuramente gli era trasùto nel Dna, nel patrimonio genetico. Adelina ci metteva due jornate sane sane a pripararli. Ne sapeva, a memoria, la ricetta. Il giorno avanti si fa un aggrassato di vitellone e di maiale in parti uguali che deve còciri a foco lentissimo per ore e ore con cipolla, pummadoro, sedano, prezzemolo e basilico. Il giorno appresso si pripara un risotto, quello che chiamano alla milanisa (senza zaffirano, Pi carità!), lo si versa sopra a una tavola, ci si impastano le ova e lo si fa rifriddàre. Intanto si còcino i pisellini, si fa una besciamella, si riducono a pezzettini ‘na poco di fette di salame e si fa tutta una composta con la carne aggrassata, triturata a mano con la mezzaluna (nenti frullatore, Pi carità di Dio!). Il suco della carne s’ammisca col risotto. A questo punto si piglia tanticchia di risotto, s’assistema nel palmo d'una mano fatta a conca, ci si mette dentro quanto un cucchiaio di composta e si copre con dell’altro riso a formare una bella palla. Ogni palla la si fa rotolare nella farina, poi si passa nel bianco d'ovo e nel pane grattato. Doppo, tutti gli arancini s'infilano in una padeddra d’oglio bollente e si fanno friggere fino a quando pigliano un colore d'oro vecchio. Si lasciano scolare sulla carta. E alla fine, ringraziannu u Signiruzzu, si mangiano! Montalbano non ebbe dubbio con chi cenare la notte di capodanno. Solo una domanda l’angustiò prima di pigliare sonno: i due delinquenti figli d’Adelina ce l'avrebbero fatta a restare in libertà fino al giorno appresso?........

The recipe takes 2 days to cook. The day before I made the risotto and the ragù according to the stringent specifications of the Diamante. Then you let it rest in the fridge for a night, and prepare the workspace for the next day. If you don't have space in your kitchen or live with only one plate, don't try this. You have no less than 7 bowls around the frying machine: risotto, ragù, cheese cubes, flour, beaten eggs, water and the breadcrumbs.

Here is the recipe. The amount of rice relative to the meat filling depends on how much you manage to stuff each arancino.

ARANCINI AL RISO
For the risotto:
1 onion, finely minced
20gr butter
2 cups risotto rice
4 cups chicken broth
150gr grated Pecorino cheese

For the ragù:
50gr pancetta
1 onion
1 carot
1 celery stick
1 clove garlic, minced
200gr beef chuck
1 cup tomato purée
1 cup red wine
2 twigs thyme
1 bay leaf
salt, pepper
1 cup cooked green peas

When making the arancini:
1 cup flour
1 cup breadcrumbs
3 eggs, beaten
200gr cheese, soft pecorino or other meltable cheese

The day before, make the risotto by frying the minced onion gently in a saucepan, then adding the uncooked rice and leaving it for two more minutes, then adding the broth and leaving it unocvered until cooked. Do not add saffron. When cold add the grated pecorino, cover and store in the frige until the next day. While you make the risotto, prepare the ragù. Fry pancetta, minced onion and garlic until soft. Gradually add finely minced chuck meat so that it will brown without releasing too much liquid at once. When all meat has been browned in this way, add minced carrot and celery stick and fry for 5 more minutes. Pour the red wine and let cook for 2 minute until alcool has evaporated. Add tomato paste, bay leaf, thyme, salt and pepper. Cover and leave to cook on lowest flame for 1 hours or until meat is soft. Store in the fridge until next day.

The next day, heat 2 liters (2 quarts) oil to 180°C in a pan and prepare 7 bowls:

Bowl 1: Cold risotto
Bowl 2: Ragù
Bowl 3: Diced cheese
Bowl 4: Flour
Bowl 5: Beaten eggs
Bowl 6: Breadcrumbs
Bowl 7: Water

To make an arancino, take two tablespoons of risotto in one hand, make a hole with a finger and stuff it with ragù and 1-2 cheese cubes. Close the hole with the risotto until you have a small ball with no ragù in sight. Some people make little volcanoes as you see in the picture above. Roll the arancino in the flour, shake it to remove excess flour, then quickly dip into the beaten eggs and check it is thoroughly covered on all its surface. If not, dip again in the eggs until it is. Then just roll in breadcrumbs to make a nice crust and deep fry until nicely brown.

Making arancini is not difficult and does not require special skill. Your first arancini will be very 'ricy'. The name of the game is to get as much filling in as little risotto possible. If you keep trying, each arancino will be better than the last one. Good luck!

My journey in Scicli to dicover the Sicilian baroque

Scicli is 161 Km. distant from Agrigento, 166 Km. from Caltanissetta, 129 Km. from Catania, 170 Km. from Enna, 225 Km. from Messina, 308 Km. from Palermo, 25 Km. from Ragusa, that is the province it belongs to, 87 Km. from Siracusa, 334 Km. from Trapani.
The municipality has 25.852 inhabitants, its surface measures 13.754 hectares and its population density counts 188 inhabitants per square kilometre. It rises along the coast on a hilly area, 100 metres above the sea-level.
According to some philologists the word Scicli comes from the Greek Sikla, which means milk pail, referring to the rich zootechnical production in the area. Numerous archaeological findings testify the presence of human beings already in ancient times. During the centuries Scicli was conquered by Arabs, Normans and Aragonese. With the latter, it was part of the County of Modica. During the 14th century, the settlement, originally situated on the hill of S. Matteo, gradually developed towards the plain below, and therefore the new feud was here created. The town was later modified because of the earthquake in 1693.

Particularly important are the church of S.Bartolomeo (15th century), the Mother Church and the church of S.Maria La Nuova (15th entury) which has a Gagini statue inside.
An illustrious personality from Scicli is the philologist Quintino Cataudella, who wrote the history of the classical humour in old Greece and Rome.

This is just a small introduction about the history of Scicli. If you wish to plan your holiday in Southern Eastern Sicily book your holiday at our exclusive Boutique Hotels only with Valerio Travel Italy.

New Discovery: Procida Island

Procida is one of the Phlegrean islands off the coast of Naples in southern Italy. The island is between Cape Miseno and the island of Ischia. With its tiny satellite island of Vivara, it is a comune of the province of Naples, in the region of Campania. The population is about ten thousand.

Etymology of the name

The island derives its name from the Latin name Prochyta. Probably, this name comes from Prima Cyme, meaning 'near Cuma'. According to another theory, Prochyta comes from the Greek verb prokeitai, meaning 'it lies forth', because of the appearance of the island seen from the sea.

Geography

Procida is located between Capo Miseno and the island of Ischia. It is less than 4.1 square kilometres (1.6 sq mi). Its coastlines, very jagged, are 16 km (10 miles). The Terra Murata hill is the highest point on the island (91 metres (300 ft)).

Creation of the island

Geologically, Procida was created by the eruption of four volcanoes, now dormant and submerged.

History

Procida was held by Mycene in the period between the 16th and 15th centuries BC. During the 8th century BC the first Greek settlers to this island were immediately replaced by other Greek peoples coming from Cuma.

During Roman rule, Procida became a renowned resort for the patrician class of Rome.

Middle Ages

After the fall of the Western Roman Empire and the Byzantine reconquest in the Gothic Wars (6th century)), Procida remained under the jurisdiction of the Duke of Naples. The continual devastation first by the Vandals and Goths, and later by the Saracens, pushed the population to resettle in a fortified village typical of Medieval times. The population was sheltered by a cape, naturally defended by walls that peak on the sea that were later fortified, thus acquiring the name of Terra Murata, (Walled earthwork).

Testimonies from this period are from those who manned the watchtowers on the sea, which became the symbol of the island. With the Norman conquest of Southern Italy, Procida experienced feudal dominion; the island, with a mainland annex (the future Mount of Procida), came under the control of the Da Procida family which continued to hold the island for more than two centuries. The most famous member of the family was John III of Procida, counsellor to Emperor Frederick II and leader of the revolt of the Sicilian Vespers.

In the 1339, the fiefdom, together with the Island of Ischia, was handed over to the Cossa family, of French origin, loyal followers of the Angevin dynasty then reigning in Naples. Baldassare Cossa was elected Antipope in 1410 with the name of John XXIII. In this period a deep economic transformation of the island began, as agriculture was slowly abandoned in favour of fishing.
View of Corricella from Cape Pizzaco.

Modern era

During the rule of Charles V the island was granted to the D'Avalos family. Pirate raids continued during this period. Particularly notable was one in 1534, led by the infamous Turk admiral Hayreddin Barbarossa.

In 1744 King Charles III made Procida a royal game reserve. In this period the Procidan fleet reached its zenith, backed by a period of flourishing shipbuilding. The population rose to approximately 16,000. In 1799, Procida took part in the revolts that led to the proclamation of the Neapolitan Republic. With the return of the Bourbon dynasty a few months later 12 Procidans were beheaded.

The Napoleonic Wars brought several episodes of devastation due to the island's strategic position in the naval engagements between French and English. In 1860, after the fall of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, the island became part of the newly formed Kingdom of Italy.

The 20th century

The 20th century saw a crisis in Procidan shipbuilding due to competition with industrial conglomerates. In 1907 Procida lost its mainland territory, which became independent and is commonly called the Mount of Procida (Monte di Procida).

In 1957, the first underwater aqueduct in Europe was built in Procida.

In the last few decades, the population has slowly begun to grow. The economy remains in great part tied to the marine industry, although the tourist industry has also grown.

Novels and movies about Procida

Several writers have set their novels in Procida. One of the most notable is the novel Graziella written by Alphonse de Lamartine, who came to Procida at the beginning of the 19th century while in the French army. Another celebrated novel is L'isola di Arturo (1957), one of the greater works of Elsa Morante.

Procida has been chosen as a film set for numerous films, mainly for its panoramas and its typical Mediterranean architecture. The most famous are Il Postino and The Talented Mr. Ripley.
The historical centre.

Folklore and traditions

There are many religious traditions on the island tied to the period of Holy Week before Good Friday. The most evocative of these are the Procession of the Apostles of Holy Thursday and the Procession of the Mysteries of Good Friday. The last one is based on a tradition going back to the end of the 17th century. In the procession, the young males of the island, dressed in the traditional dress of the "Confraternity of the Turchini", carry allegorical wagons (called "mysteries") of religious character for a fixed distance, from the village of Torre Murata to the port of Marina Grande. The "mysteries", often highly artistic, are prepared by the young people and generally nobody except them would have, at least in theory, seen them before the procession. After the procession, they are taken apart or destroyed.

Every summer, there is an election of the Graziella ("Little Graceful"), a young woman that wears the customary clothes of the island, referring to the history told in Alphonse de Lamartine's novel, Graziella. Also during the summer, a literary award dedicated to Elsa Morante and her novel, Arthur's Island, is presented.

A journey into the Chianti Region

Two routes in the Chianti region: discover a gorgeous countryside
The Chianti territory with its hilly countryside of incomparable beauty lies in the very heart of Tuscany.
The proposed itineraries follow two principal guide‑lines that cross the Chianti region also suggesting two different ways to "read" it. Administered by both the Provinces of Florence and Siena, during the Middle Ages it was harshly contested by these two rival cities until 1555 when the Medicis imposed their hegemony on all of Tuscany.
It is difficult to trace its borders since only the mountains of Chianti in the East separate it from Upper Valdarno in a natural and neat way; the remaining territory fades into the hills of the Arbia, Elsa, Greve and Pesa rivers.
Mediaeval villages, castles, churches, abbeys, monasteries, cottages and villas lie one after the other in a fantastic itinerary that exalts the activity and inventiveness of man; centuries of work have modelled the hills of this region and the alternation of the olive groves and the forests creates a harmony unique to the world.
Along Via Cassia, or alternatively the faster Florence‑Siena Superstrada, one can follow again th e paths once taken by pilgrims and wayfarers who, during the Middle Ages, reached Rome from Northern Europe with everything that it had to bear: parìsh churches, small towns, hospices, abbeys. Via Chiantigiana, on the other hand, is a more rural path that throughout its length crosses the classic wine region.
In any case, the visitor will be offered an unforgettable countryside always varying and harmonious and so diverse in colours and in atmosphere with the changing seasons. There are many ways to get to one of the parish churches, castles or isolated towns, silent witnesses to the historical and artistic richness of the Chianti region.
It does not matter how one gets there: whether by car, motorcycle, bicycle or bus, there are many possibilities for staying and enjoying a few days' holiday in the relaxing atmosphere of Chianti, tasting the gastronomic specialties of the region accompanied by wines that have made Chiantifamous all over the world.

Via Cassia
Certosa del GalluzzoToday's Via Cassia does not corrispond, in the Tuscan section, to the ancient Roman road and not even to Via Francigena, the mediaeval trail that ran along the Valdelsa valley. It was however an important main road that the pilgrims and merchants took to get to Via Francigena at Poggibonsi. Since the XV century it was called "strada regia romana" and represented the main road between Florence and Rome until the construction of the Autosole autoway.
Since Via Cassia passes through many urban centres and is at times rather congested with traffic, the hurried tourist may choose to take the Florence‑Siena Autostrada that can be abandoned whenever one wishes to visit one of the proposed locations.
Before reaching Via Cassia, Galluzzo's Certosa is worth a visit. It rises on the hills of Montaguto to the south of Florence. Founded by Niccolò Acciaiuoli in the XIV century for the purpose of housing young Florentines who wished to leam the liberal arts. It is surrounded by high walls, that together with the majestic Palazzo degli Studi bestow upon it the aspect of a foriress. Preserved inside Certosa, now inhabited by a group of Benedictine Cistercian monks, are some important works of art, among whìch there are 5 lunettoni (crescent shaped paintings), frescoes of scenes of the Passion by Pontormo painted between 1523 and 1525 during his permanence there while escaping the plague that had hit Florence.

SAN CASCIANO VAL DI PESA
San Casciano val di PesaProperty of the Florentine bishops since its foundation, San Casciano was annexed to the Florentine Republic in the XIII century and was subsequently fortified, turning it into a castle of defense against the dangers that originated in the Sienese countryside. Many traces of the boundary walls and the mediaeval towers remain even today. The Museum of Sacred Art set up inside the Church of S. Maria del Gesù holds precious works of art from all over the region. The altar frontal attributed to Coppo di Marcovaldo representing San Michele Arcangelo and tales of his legend and the Madonna and Child by A. Lorenzetti are certainly the two most important works. Among the principal monuments are the Collegiata and the Church of Mercy (or S. Maria al Prato) that preserves a rich patrimony of works of art, including a Crucifix by Simone Martini.
The churches in the area are numerous and bear witness to the importance of S. Casciano in the MiddIe Ages, many of which are worth a visit, including the parish churches of S. Cecilia a Decimo a little out of the inhabited centre, S. Giovanni in Sugana in the Cerbaia direction; and S. Stefano a Campoli (dated 903) in the vicinity of Mercatale Val di Pesa.
We also remind you of the many villas around S. Casciano, including Villa i Collazzi and Villa Tattoli near Cerbaia and, in S. Andrea in Percussina, Villa Bossi‑Pucci so‑called Albergaccio, famous for Niccolò Machiavelli's stay.

TAVARNELLE VAL DÌ PESA
Tavarnelle val di Pesa Badia a PassignanoIt owes its name to the "tabernulae", the stop‑over and rest points along the "via regia" that linked Florence to Siena and then to Rome. This area has numerous interesting churches.
At one extreme of the inhabited area there is the church of S. Lucia al Borghetto (XIII century) an ex‑franciscan convent in Gothic style where a precious Crucifix of thirteenth‑century school and an Annunciation by Neri di Bicci are kept. Just out of Tavamelle, after leaving Via Cassia, one reaches Morrocco where it is possible to visit the church of S. Maria del Carmine, built in the 1400's and then largely remodelled. Inside, a glazed terracotta of the Annunciation in Andrea della Robbia's style is preserved, and a serics of fresco fragments from the 1400's. Not far from Morrocco is the old parish church of S. Pietro in Bossolo. In the presbytery, there is the Museum of Sacred Art where works from the churches of small abandoned towns are preserved. Among some of the most important works we must mention a series of panels executed in 1473 by Neri di Bicci for the church of S. Maria al Morrocco and a pall with the Madonna and Child between S. Martino and S. Sebastiano by the so‑called Maestro di Tavamelle.
In the territory of Tavarnelle San Donato in Poggio is definitely worth a visit. It is a small medieval village that still preserves notable remains of boundary walls, buildings of the 1200‑1300's, the Renaissance Malaspina Palace, the church of S. Maria della Neve (XV century) in Gothic style and the Ronianesque parish church of San Donato where a beautiful baptismal font in glazed terracotta by G. della Robbia is kept.
From Sambuca along the road to Greve, one comes across the majestic Passignano Abbey founded in 1049 by monks from the Vallombrosian order. Immersed in the countryside, surrounded by an intense cultivation of olives, the abbey is striking for its fortress‑like appearance, with its walls and battlement towers. Among the numerous works of art preserved in the abbey one must remember Passignano's frescoes (1601) in the main chapel and above all the fresco of the Last Supper by Domenico and Davide Ghirlandaio (1476‑77) in the refectory of the monastery.

BARBERINO VAL D'ELSA
Barberino val d'ElsaFounded by the Florentines in a strategic position to resist the expansion of the Semifonte castle, Barberino still preserves its medieval appearance with its fortified walls, tower‑houses, the Pretorio Palace (XIV century), the Pilgrim's Hospital (XIV century) and the church of S. Bartolomeo. .
From Barberino, following the road to Certaldo, one arrives at the remains of the Semifonte castle which was destroyed by the Florentines in 1202 after a long siege. Not long after the end of the 1500's the chapel of S. Michele Arcangelo was erected, according to a project by Santi di Tito, to commemorate Semifonte.
Continuing on in the direction of Certaldo the romanesque parish church of S. Appiano can. be found, one of the oldest to be found in the Florentine countryside dated around the XI century. The interesting cross‑shaped columns in front of the church bear witness to the existence of an ancient baptistry.

After Barberino Val d'Elsa Via Cassia continues on but leaves the Chianti region. Those who would like to follow it may visit Poggibonsi, Colle Val d'Elsa and Monteriggioni and then Siena. A deviation from Poggibonsi for S. Gimignano is highly recommended.

VIA CHIANTIGIANA
Greve in ChiantiIt has always been and is still an important main road that links Florence and Siena and maintains still today a more markedly rural character than that of Via Cassia. The first part of the itinerary suggested hereafter initially follows the SS 484 from Castelnuovo Berardenga to Radda and Castellina in Chianti. It is only here in Castellina that one enters the SS 222 Chiantigiana to go to Florence. In order to get to many of the suggested points, it wilI be necessary to deviate onto secondary roads.

IMPRUNETA
fiera dell'ImprunetaImpruneta was already inhabited in the Etruscan and Roman era, and during the Middle Ages was tied to the political and economic affairs of nearby Florence. The real propulsory centre of the community of Impruneta was the parish Church of S. Maria, founded in 1060, that became, in a short time, an important sanctuary to the Virgin Mary. The church, originally in Romanesque style, underwent numerous revisions over the centuries, and at present only the original crypt has been preserved, while the church presents a sober Renaissance‑style appearance. Inside, works by important artists are kept, including some by Michelozzo and Luca della Robbia and an miraculous icon of the Madonna is venerated ‑ which tradition says was painted by Luke the Evangelist. The veneration of the Madonna of Impruneta has encouraged the accumulation of precious gifts and votive offerings over the centuries, which are now kept in the Museum of Sacred Art adjacent to the church together with miniature manuscripts, gold and silver. Thanks to the great tradition of the earthenware and terracotta kilns, the cotto of Impruneta has become a characterizing and distinctive element of the architecture and of the Tuscan countryside, beyond being a famous product exported all over the world.
The Buondelmonti piazza, the traditional market‑place, has been made famous with a drawing by J. Callot in 1620 that represents the Fair of S. Luca in October. Check out the tourist website of Impruneta.

GREVE IN CHIANTI
Greve in ChiantiGreve is situated at the intersection of the roads that Iinked Florence and Siena and Upper Valdarno and the Valdelsa. It began to develop as a "market place" for the principal castles of the area in the XIII century. Greve's main piazza, is characterized by an original formation of irregular triangular shape, defined by beautiful long porticos. Today it is still an important point of exchange, particularly on the occasion of the Mostra Mercato del Chianti Classico (Chianti Classico, Wine Fair) that takes place there every year in September. The Monterioralle castle dominates Greve, which still maintains intact the original mediaeval town structure with a narrow ring‑road that follows on to mect the little church of S. Stefano, where an. interesting twelfth‑century Madonna and Child is preserved.
The castles of Uzzano, Verrazzano, Vicchiomaggio and Lamole are also notable. A short distance from Greve, in the Panzano direction, Vignamaggio Villa can be found, where, according to tradition, Mona Lisa ‑ made famous by Leonardo ‑ was born. The Romanesque parish church of Panzano or S. Leolino, dating back to the X century, preserves important works of art, including a precious panel with the Madonna on the throne Saints Peter and Paul and stories of the two saints, attributed to Meliore di Jacopo (XIII century).

CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI
Fortezza medievale Castellina in Chianti SienaLong‑standing feudal domain of the Trebbio family, Castellina passed over to Florence in the XV century that surrounded it with walls making it one of the most important battlement locations against Siena. The medieval fort dominates the country, but that which bears witness more than anything else to Castellina's medieval past is surely the Via delle Volte, a walkway set into the walls of the town which offers, limited but exceptional panorama, seen through the arrow­slits.
Just outside the inhabited centre lies the Etruscan ipogeo (underground cave) of Montecalvario, a rather imposing grave for dimensions dated to the VII‑VI century B.C. that, together with other tombs identified in various other locations, bears witness to the Etruscan presence in Chianti.

RADDA IN CHIANTI
Radda in Chianti palazzo comunale SienaRadda in Chianti is on the boundary of Florentine and Sienese territories and was often involved in troubled historic affairs. It was the headquarters for the Lega of the Chianti region ‑ an autonomous jurisdiction created by the Florentine Republic in 1250 which also included Castellina, Gaiole and Greve.
Apart from the urbanistic structure in an elongated elliptical plan, there remains in medieval style only a few sections of the periphery walls and various towers. The Pretorio Palace however, is of interest, built in the 1400's and adorned with official mayoral stems.
Only a short distance from Radda, in the direction of Lucarelli and Panzano, indications for the Romanesque parish church of S. Maria Novella are found, unique in the Chianti territory for its capitals decorated with animalistic symbols, monstrous figures and floral drawings that bring to mind the Romanesque parish churches of Valdarno and Casentino.
The Volpaia castle is a small mediaeval agglomeration that is certainly worth a visit. Inside the walls is a Iabyrinth of little paved lanes preserved between arches, palazzos and the little Renaissance church of S. Eufrosino (XV century).

GAIOLE IN CHIANTI
Gaiole in Chianti Castello di Meleto SienaDuring the Middle Ages it was an important market place, developed along the road for Valdarno. The numerous castles and parish churches in the vicinity bear witness to an intense and prosperous agricultural and commercial activity. Among the castles, which were all established in the Middle Ages, of particular interest is Vertine, also Meleto with its two majestic rounded angular towers, Barbischio, and above all Brolio castle. A patrol walkway runs on top of the walIs and bastions that surround the town, from which one can enjoy a beautiful panorama of the Chianti region and the Sienese countryside. The castle, completely destroyed in 1478, was reconstructed in the last century on Bettino Ricasoli's wish.
At less than 1 km from Gaiole, the beautiful Romanesque parish church of Spaltenna is worth a visit, while on the road to Valdarno, immersed in the green of age‑old fir‑trees, is the Abbey at Coltibuono. A large part of the majestic complex of the abbey that was constructed by the Vallombrosan monks is now private property, the Romanesque church and the massive embattled bell­ tower.

CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA
Castelnuovo Bardenga San Felice SienaCastelnuovo Berardenga is a southern offshoot of Chianti. The original town dates back to the IX century when it was a feudal complex called "terra berardinga", but only a thirteenth‑century tower and a piece of the periphery wall remain of the old arrangement. However, of architectural relevance, overhanging the town is Villa Chigi Saracìni with its large park.

Vulcano Island

Vulcano is an island of 21sqm belonging to the Aeolian Archipelago. According to Greek mythology, here was placed the forge of Hephaestus, the god of fire, who worked as a blacksmith with the assistance of the Cyclops. But the island was named after the Roman name of the God, that is Vulcan, hence the term vulcanology.

The very existence of the island results from the fusion of four volcanoes; the largest and most dominant peak, Vulcano della Fossa, rising up to 391m of reddish rock. Beside is the smaller Vulcanello, 123m, which erupted on the north side in 183 BC. Although the last eruption dates back to 1890, the volcano has never ceased to betray signs of its activity; even today, such phenomenons as fumaroles, jets and steam above and below sea level and sulphurous mud, highly prized for its therapeutic properties, continue to be very much in evidence.

Volcano’s shoreline is much jagged sometimes resembling tentacles plunging into the sea, its colour ranging from red to ochre-yellow and featuring a scenery of wild and haunting beauty.

Porto di Levante e Porto di Ponente – Between the two island’s harbours, stretches the main town Porto di Levante, full of small shops and furnished with contemporary sculptures made of lava stone.

Ascent to the crater – about 2 hours there and back. From the end of the main road

from Porto di Levante, the track to the crater gently climbs up along a flank of the mountain offering enchanting views over the archipelago. In the foreground is the Vulcanello peninsula, opposite is Lipari, to the left stands Salina, with its characteristic two humps; in the distance lie Filicudi, Panarea, on the right with its isles, and Stromboli in the far background. About half-way up to the top, is an area of compacted red earth, cut with deep regular furrows,

suggestive of some Martian landscape. The higher the path climbs, the stronger is sulphur smell, combined with occasional cloud of steam. At the top is a magnificent scenery with the Cratere della Fossa’s huge bowl with its southern rim blurred by clouds of boiling sulphurous vapours released from cracks in the crust with a whistle that seems to emanate from deep within the earth; the rock is stained yellow ochre and red by the fumes that condense into the most delicate crystals while still hot. These are the so-called fumarole.

A tour of the crater, taking about 30 minutes, permits an exploration of the southern part of the island and, from the highest point, to enjoy one of the most astonishing sights of all the archipelago.

The beaches – Two of Vulcano’s beaches are nestled near the main town. The sabbie nere (black beaches), so-called because of its black colored sand of volcanic origin, stretches along a fine bay that is, sadly, too crowded in summer; the beach of the Fumarole is bathed by warm waters that are heated by bubbles of sulphurous steam, able to reach a dangerous temperature (beware of being scalded).

The secluded and less frequented Gelso beach is on the opposite side of the island, reachable by sea, by bus leaving from Porto di Levante (check time schedule as services are highly restricted) or car, driving the Provincial road Porto Levante to Vulcano Piano which forks for Gelso and Capo Grillo).

Excursion to the Grotta del Cavallo and Piscina di Venere – Departures by boat from the black beaches. The boat skirts around Vulcanello, with its Valley of Monsters, before circumnavigating the most jagged part of the coast on the way to this glorious grotto named after the sea horses that once lived there. On the left is Venus’ pool, a shallow pool with clearest water, an idyllic place for an unforgettable swim (those who wish to stay for a few hours can go with one of the early boat trips, which run fairly regularly throughout the day, and return on one of the later ones; check with the fisherman).

Fanghi – Mud is one of Vulcano’s attractions. Leaving the port on the right, behind a

rock of incredible colors ranging trhough every shade of yellow to red, there is a natural pool containing sulphurous mud renowned for its therapeutic properties.

Some advices about mud therapy – Mud treatment is recommended for people with rheumatic ailments and dermatological conditions (greasy skin, acne, psoriasis). Not recommended for expectant mothers, people suffering from tumour-related disease, or with fevers, heart conditions, osteoporosis, gastro-intestinal upsets, uncompensated diabetes and Flajany’s disease.

Recommendations: short immersions (never over 20 minutes) in the coolest hours, followed by a hot shower. Do not apply to the eyes. In the event of mud getting into the eyes, rinse liberally with fresh water. For any ailments resulting from mud baths, consult a doctor.

La Valle dei Mostri – On Vulcanello. A trip is especially recommended at dawn or sunset, when the evocative shapes of the rocks, caught by the sun’s rays, are most impressive. The Valley of Monsters is the name given to a downward slope of black sand, dotted here and there with blocks of lava that have cooled into weird forms and provocative profiles suggestive of prehistoric animals, monsters and wild beasts (including a bear reared up on its hind legs and a crouching lion).

Capo Grillo – some 10 km from Porto Levante. The local road, leading to Vulcano Piano and beyond to the cape, offers fine views of Lipari and the great crater and, from the promontory, across the archipelago.

Discover the flavours of Lipari Island

Lipari is the main town on the island. Clearly visible, as you approach the island from the sea, are the top of the town, the fortified city with behind (visible if you come from Marina Lunga) the former Franciscan convent, now Town Hall. Far below at its feet sit the two bays of Marina Corta, watched by the small church of the Anime del Purgatorio (once isolated on a rock, now linked to the mainland) and by the 1600’s church of San Giuseppe, and of Marina Lunga, the larger of the two inlets. On the last night of the festival of St. Bartholomew on 24 August, Marina Corta is illuminated by a magnificent display of fireworks, set off from the sea. The lower part of town or città bassa, with its main street Corso Vittorio Emanuele lined with charming shops and restaurants, provides the perfect context for the traditional passeggiata (walk).

Castello – This is how they refer to the citadel, a structure constructed on a Greek acropolis before being surrounded by walls in the 13th century. In the 16th century Charles V had it reinforced after the town was sacked by Barbarossa. It is best approached from piazza Mazzini, by the most ancient route: past the fortifications and the Greek tower (dating back to the 4th century BC), with its great medieval portcullis (12th-13th century), lies the heart of the citadel. On the right is the Chiesa di Santa Caterina, with beyond it, an archaeological area which has been excavated to reveal superimposed layers of dwellings (huts), buildings and roads from various periods spanning the Bronze Age (Capo Graziano culture) through to Hellenistic and ancient Roman times. Behind sits the Chiesetta dell’Addolorata and the 18th century Chiesa dell’Immacolata. Left of these, in the centre, rises the cathedral dedicated to the patron saint of the Eolian Islands, Saint Bartholomew: medieval in plan, it was rebuilt during the Spanish domination, while the façade dates back to the 19th century. The adjacent cloister is Norman. Opposite is a flight of steps dating from the early 20th century; to build it some of the ancient walls had to be demolished.

Museo Archeologico Eoliano – The collections are accomodated within several different buildings, displayed in sections relating the history of the islands from the Prehistoric to the Classic times. Special sections are devoted to marine archaeology and vulcanology. Most of the relics are from excavations undertaken since 1949. At the entrance to each room are explanatory panels of two different types: the first type, more detailed, is for visitors who wish to complete a thorough tour of the museum; the other, red, provides the basic facts pertaining to the successive development of cultures.

The section on Lipari Prehistory begins with a room entirely reserved to obsidian, the glass-like volcanic stone which has been so prized for its strenght and razor-sharp cutting edge; although fragile, it was widely used and exported in Antiquity for making tools. The Capo Graziano culture (1800-1400 BC, owing its name to an area in Filicudi island) and the ensuing Capo Milazzese’s (from Panarea) marked a period of high prosperity for the islands (room 5 and 6), characterized by a demographic and commercial increase. Evidence for this is provided by the presence of large Mycenean vases likely traded here for raw materials. The following epoch (13th- 9th century BC), known as the Ausonian period, after the people that, according to historian Diodorus Siculus, arrived from the Italian mainland, is classified according to various criteria: there are many one-handled bowls with horn-shaped appendages (probably intended to ward off evil spirits) which, later on, evolve into stylised forms of animal heads (rooms 7 and 9). Room 10 onwards is devoted to the Greek and Roman ages. After being long abandoned, the acropolis at Lipari was colonized by people from Knidos and Rhodes (6th century BC). The lid of the Bothros (votive pit) of Aeolus, with its stone lion-cum-handle (room 10) is particularly striking. The cult of Aeolus seems to have been shared by both established residents and colonizers. The other glass-cases contain the “offerings” found in the pit.

The buildings opposite contain rooms devoted to the prehistory of the smaller islands and to vulcanology (building at left); the geological evolution of the islands is explained through boards, diagrams and scale models.

The chronological display continue in the building north of the cathedral (the nmbering of the rooms has been inverted in the first three rooms: Room 18 leads through to room 17 and then 16 before continuing with 19, etc.). The reconstruction of the Bronze Age necropolis (12th century BC) is particularly interesting: this compares burial after cremation (12th century BC) – when urns containing the ashes are covered with bowls and placed inside small pits dug in the ground (room 17), with information burials (14th century BC) – when large pithoi or jars (containing the curled-up body of the dead person) were simply interred in the ground. Trading vassels encountering storms at sea often came in to shore to find shelter; on their route were two notable black spots renowned as being highly dangerous; Capo Graziano (on Filicudi) and the area known as Le Formiche (the Ants which consists of treacherous rocks hidden just below the surface just off Panarea). From these two places have been retrieved the shipwrecked cargo of some twenty trading vassels that comprised large numbers of amphorae of various types, of which the museum has a vast collection (see Marine Archaeology section). The grave goods, dating from the 6th-5th century BC, include an unusual array of rather coarsely modelled clay figurines (room 21), which are of particular interest in that they re-enact different domestic tasks; a mother washes a child, a woman intent on making soup in a bowl and another grinds grain with a mortar, on the edge of which perches a cat. Among the fine examples of red-figure ware, made in Sicily or mainland Italy, emerges one depicting a highly unusual scen (360 BC): a naked acrobat balances in a hand-stand before Dionysus and two comic actors with exaggerated features. Behind the group, in two panels, are painted the portraits of two additional actors. In the same glass are three vases by the so-called painter of Adrastus (king of Argos); the third one bears a very dramatic scene where, under the portico of the palace of Argos, Tydeus confronts Polynices, the son of Oedipus, who was exiled from Thebes.

The cult of Dionysus, god not only of the wine, but also of the theatre and celestial bliss (for those who were initiated into its mysteries) explains the inclusion, among the grave goods recovered from votive pits, of statuettes of actors and theatrical masks; the museum has an extremely rich, varied and ancient collection of such objects (room 23), which is quite unique. The last section of the museum is devoted to Lipari’s Hellenistic and Roman epochs (a big quantity of moulded oil lamps stamped with different kinds of decoration is held); also displayed are various artefacts (notably ceramics) relating to the Norman, Spanish, Renaissance and Baroque periods.

Parco Archeologico – On the far side of the citadel on the right. In the archaeological gardens are aligned numerous ancient sarcophagi. From the terrazza there is an enchanting view over the little church of the Anime del Purgatorio, jutting out into the sea opposite Marina Corta, and Vulcano on the horizon.

Tour of the island – 27km round trip; set out from Lipari città in the direction of Canneto, to the north.

Canneto – This small village set back from the great sweep of coast is a favorite spot from where to set out for the white beaches, visible from Canneto, that are accessible by a footpath. The clear sea is due to the high content of pumice dust. From the harbour of Canneto, it is possible to visit the pumice quarries near Porticello. The simplest way, what is also the most picturesque and traditional, is to go by boat with one of the many fishermen who buzz about the harbour; the other way is by bus.

Cave di Pomice a Porticello – This lovely bay is lined by a mass of pumice quarries and workshops; all, save the last and most northern, are now abandoned. Waste resulting from the extraction and working of the stone accumulates naturally in mounds of fine white sand along the shore, which hardens with time. On the beach, lie small fragments of black obsidian. The scene is strangely compelling: the sea is of the palest tinges of blue, as clear as glass (revelaing the pumice-lined seabed), old wooden jetties once used for loading pumice onto boats are ghostly still. One of the bathers’ favorite pastimes is to climb the white mounds and cover themselves with pumice dust to smooth their skin. The keenest kids can then emulate the children in the scene from Kaos (by film-makers Taviani brothers), who hurled themselves down the mounds, roly-poly fashion, straight into the sea (however, the sea is now about a metre away). Dramatic views of the white pumice slopes of Campo Bianco can be enjoyed along the road especially at sunset. For a split second, the scene might evoke some alpine context among tall snow-covered slopes.

A little further on is the Fossa delle Rocche Rosse, where the island’s most impressive flow of obsidian can be admired.

Beyond Acquacalda is Puntazze, offering a beautiful view spanning five islands: from left to right are Alicudi, Filicudi, Salina, Panarea and Stromboli.

Stufe di San Calogero – Just beyond Pianoconte, take right. The water of this hot springs have been famous for their therapeutic properties since Antiquity. Amongst ruins of ancient buildings (alongside a modern spa which was unfortunately closed), is a domed chamber. This is likely the oldest thermal complex, and indeed the only Hellenistic building, still in use today even if it only provides people with “DIY” therapy requiring them to splash themselves with water that springs from the ground at a temperature of 60°C.

Quattrocchi – This belvedere opens out on a beautiful panorama with Punta S. Iacopo and Punta Perciato in the foreground. Behind are the faraglioni, big rocks emerging from the waters, and, in the background, the island of Vulcano. The Odissey tells that these were hurled by Polyphemus against Ulysses who had blinded him by thrusting a flaming stake into his only eye; the hero then escaped with his companions by clinging to the bellies of rams belonging to the Cyclops. A beautiful view of Lipari can be enjoyed as you approach the town on your tour.

Boat trip around the island – Departures from Marina Corta. A boat tour offers the opportunity to explore the island’s jagged coastline, dotted with arches, boulders and craggy rocks.

TOURISM

Lipari is the largest and the most populated of the Aeolian islands. Its physical relief, with its gentle lowlands, has prompted a number of towns to spring up both along the coast and inland.

Inhabited since the antiquity and renowned for its obsidian, the island enjoyed great prosperity although it was often subject to raids and attacks among which is the one launched by Turk Kaireddin Barbarossa, who, in 1544, landed at Porto delle Genti (a small hamlet near Lipari) and ravaged the city killing or deporting the population as slaves to Africa.

The main moorings on the island are in the town of Lipari, which is served by two ports: Marina Corta is used by the hydrofoils and by smaller craft, while ferries moor at Marina Lunga. From here, it is easy to get to the island’s other towns, that are Canneto, Acquacalda, Quattropiani and Pianoconte. It is advisable to tour the island by car or bike, also available at various hire places.

Time for a treat

The Pasticceria Subba, at 92, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, in Lipari city, has been making fabulous goodies: cannoli (filled with ricotta cheese), cassate (brimming with candied fruit), pasta paradiso (melting moments) and ice-cream.

A special evening meal

The restaurant E Pulera, in via Diana, only opens for dinner from June to October, dining outside, in a charming garden. In July and August, typical Aeolian dishes are served accompanied by traditional music and folkloristic shows.

The beauties of the Aeolian Islands: Salina

With its distinctive two-humped profile (hence its ancient name Didyme, meaning twins), Salina is a solitary and quiet island, perfect for who wants to spend a relaxing holiday at one with nature. Originally comprised of six volcanoes of which four have disappeared over time, it derives its present name from the saltworks, now abandoned, at Lingua, a tiny village on the southern coast. Capers and grapes, the latter used to produce the worldwide famous Malvasia delle Lipari are the island’s most important and typical products.

Salina has two landing stages: Santa Maria Salina and the little Rinella di Leni (where is also a campsite which is crowded during during the second and third weeks of August).

Trips inland – By car or moped (ask the local inhabitants for information on hiring points). A bus service is also available; time table are displayed at Santa Maria Salina harbor.

A panoramic road offering many views of the jagged coastline links the harbor with the island’s other hamlets. From the main town Santa Maria Salina, the road heads northwards, past Capo Faro, on its way to Malfa. Then, it continues along the coastline above Punta del Perciato, with its natural arch but visible from the sea or from Pollara beach, a little further on, considered the most beautiful beach on the island. Nearby is the (private) house where scenes of Troisi’s Il Postino (The Postman) were filmed. It was here that the meetings between poet Neruda (Philip Noiret) and the postman (Massimo Troisi) took place.

Spiaggia di Pollara – The beautiful Pollara beach is accessible by two different paths: one leads to a small anchorage enclosed by its own miniature shoreline of rocks; the other opens out in a wide beach overshadowed by a striking white semicircular cliff-wall, a remnant of the crater.

On returning to Malfa, the road forks inland to Valdichiesa, where is the Santuario della Madonna del Terzito, a destination of pilgrims, and Rinella di Leni.

Fossa delle Felci – This is the taller of the two mounts in Salina, with a beautiful fern wood (hence its name), recently designated as a protected area. It is reachable through a 2 hours foot-path going from the Santuario della Madonna del Terzito to Valdichiesa. Another route starts from Santa Maria Salina.

The world-known Malvasia delle Lipari is a strong, sweet, golden wine made from grapes that have been left to wither on the vine before being picked. Its smooth, aromatic flavour makes it an excellent dessert wine. There are various types of Malvasia available. The Doc endorsed variety, produced only on the islands, must bear the words Malvasia delle Lipari in full on the label.

Brief History on Florence, Tuscany

This is a chronology of the major events that have played a part in shaping the Florence of today.

59 BC - Florence begins to grow as a Roman town

541-4 AD - Byzantine walls added to the Roman walls, as protection against the Ostrogoths. Walls also built in 9th, 11th, 12th, and 13th centuries.

570 - Tuscany is taken by the Lombards, who set up their administration in Pavia and Lucca

781 and 786 - Charlemagne, King of the Franks, visits Florence, which has become part of the Carolingian Empire (later the Holy Roman Empire) ruled by Margraves based in Lucca

1115 - death of the last Margrave, Matilda, followed by the formation of the first Comune (the city-state) in which Florence is run by a 100-strong assembly

1235 - the Florin is first minted in silver, and then in 1252, in gold; the Florin is used as a standard coin in Europe, there is evidence of the pre-eminence of Florence in European finance

1250-60 - the Primo Popolo regime is dominated by the trade guilds

1265 - birth of Dante Alighieri in Florence

1296 - construction of the Duomo, Florence's cathedral, is begun under Arnolfo di Cambio

1302 - Dante is exiled by Charles of Valois

1340s - economic crisis, due in part to the bankruptcy of the Peruzzi and Bardi family bankers by Edward III of England and also partly to the Black Death (plague), after which the population of Florence is reduced by half

1378 - uprising of the Ciompi (wood carders), high point of labor unrest

1406 - Florence captures Pisa, gaining direct access to the sea

1458 - Cosimo de' Medici recognized as ruler of Florence

1469 - birth of Machiavelli

1469-92 - rule of Lorenzo the Magnificent, artistic highpoint

1475 - birth of Michelangelo

1478 - Pazzi conspirators scheme to have Giuliano and Lorenzo de' Medici murdered in the cathedral. Giuliano is killed but Lorenzo escapes by hiding in the sacristy

1494 - surrender of Florence to Charles VIII of France at Sarzana

1498 - Savonarola burned at the stake in Piazza della Signoria after four years of rule

1502 - Republic of Florence retakes Pisa

1570 - Cosimo I creates Tuscan state free from Pope and Holy Roman Empire

1743 - death of Anna Maria Luisa, last of the Medici, the Medici inheritance is bequeathed to Florence and becomes the basis of the Uffizi Gallery collection. Florence is then ruled by the house of Lorraine under Francis Stephen, who becomes Emperor I of Austria.

1799-1814 - Tuscany is occupied by Napoleon's troops

1865-1870 - Florence is made capital of the newly united Kingdom of Italy. King Vittorio Emmanuele is installed in Palazzo Pitti

1944 - on August 4, Germans blow up all the bridges in Florence except Ponte Vecchio

1966 - on November 4, the Arno River bursts its banks and Florence is flooded

1993 - bombing of the Uffizi Gallery

Sicilian recipe: Pasta alla Norma

1 eggplant
1 clove garlic
10 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
3 oz. aged salted ricotta, grated
olive oil
1 lb. penne
10 basil leaves
salt
pepper

Slice the eggplant and place on a cutting board propped on a slant, cover with salt and leave under a weight for one hour until the bitter water seeps out. Brown the garlic in oil, add the tomatoes and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has reduced by 1/3. Add pinch of pepper, remove from heat and set aside.

Wash the slices of eggplant and pat dry; fry in hot oil, place on paper towels to dry, then chop coarsely, and set aside. Cook the spaghetti in a large pot of boiling salted water until just al dente and drain. Quickly toss in a large skillet half of the tomato sauce, the eggplant, a few basil leaves and half of the grated cheese over a brisk flame. Then put the pasta in the serving dish, cover with the remaining half of the sauce, the rest of the grated ricotta, sprinkle with a few more basil leaves and serve.

Serves 6

Sicilian cooking

Sicily’s complex history has left its mark in architecture, landscapes, culture, and customs. But nowhere is it more evident than in the food.
Greeks brought grapes and olives and introduced the incumbent population to wine making.
Romans introduced fava beans, chick peas, lentils and some forms of pasta and devoted huge areas of previously forested land to grain production.
Arabs brought almonds, aniseed, apricots, artichokes, cinnamon, oranges, pistachio, pomegranates, saffron, sesame, spinach, sugarcane, water melon and rice.

They introduced many tastes that are now considered typically Sicilian, including the sweet and sour combinations of raisins and pine-nuts with vegetables and fish that form the basis of several common dishes.
They also started a long Sicilian love affair with sweets, including ice cream and granita (made with snow from Etna and other mountains), marzipan and candied fruits. Arabs also introduced the most advanced farming and irrigation techniques and distilled grape must to create grappa.
Normans and Hoenstaufen brought some of their northern European innovations including the rotating skewer for cooking meat and air salting of fish. The French who followed them brought a legacy of chefs for the aristocracy.
Apart from putting the final touches to sweet specialities such as the Cassata, the Spanish brought many vital ingredients of today’s Sicilian diet. The New World provided chilli and sweet peppers, tomatoes, potatoes and maize and all of these were incorporated into existing recipes so that they would now be unimaginable without them.

Today, you will eat very well all over Sicily. One telling characteristic is that you will rarely eat anything that has not been produced within a few miles of where you are sitting. The freshest fish on the coast, the tastiest meats and cheeses in the interior and a huge range of vegetables, fruits and fungi, all with a richness of flavour that you just don’t find at the supermarket!
Whether you prefer the traditional fare of the simplest local trattoria, or the more sophisticated and elaborate dishes on offer in a range of modern restaurants all over the island, such is the pride that Sicilians take in their cooking that you will rarely be disappointed. We leave a comprehensive list of recommended restaurants at all our properties and if you come on a tailored escorted holiday you will eat at a selection of them.

Introduction to Sicily

An introduction to Sicily Sicily is a land of extremes and contrasts, a magnification of all things Italian. It is also an island of enormous intensity, a concentrated distillation of history, architecture and gastronomic delights, where incandescent volcanoes light up the night skies, mountain ranges jostle for supremacy, and where the sea has sculpted a coastline of stunning variety and beauty.With its wonderful climate, Sicily is eminently visitable all the year round and each season has its own distinctive charm. There is always something to do, whether it be lounging on golden beaches, hiking in the mountains, visiting ancient archaeological sites, skiing on Mount Etna or shopping in Palermo’s fashionable boutiques. Wherever you turn you will see evidence of Sicily’s 3,000 years of history as the strategic crossroads of Europe. Nowhere else have Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, French, Germans, Spanish, Italians, and even the British, left such an enormous collective legacy. The island is a vast open-air museum, a testament to nearly every Mediterranean civilisation of the past.Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, and the largest region in Italy. It’s packed with things to see and places to go, so you shouldn’t expect to “do” it all in one go. This is especially true if we include Sicily’s delightful archipelagos, the Aeolian Islands, the Egadi Islands and the Pelagie, all supremely worth a visit.